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Newsletter #173, Aprl 17, 2009

Things to do in the Neighbourhood: UBC Nitobe Garden

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Inazo Nitobe (1862-1933): agriculturalist, scholar, Quaker, philosopher, statesman, educator. Dr. Nitobe was educated at Sapporo Agricultural College and Johns Hopkins University. Early in his life he expressed the desire "to be a bridge over the Pacific” and he devoted much of his life to promoting trust and understanding between the United States and Japan.

Nitobe was born in Morioka, Mutsu Province (present-day Iwate Prefecture). His father was a retainer to the local daimyo of the Nambu clan. In 1869 Nitobe moved to Tokyo under the adoptive care of his uncle, Tokitoshi Ohta, and in 1871, becomes his uncle's heir.

Inazo NitobeIn 1883, Nitobe was in the second class of the Sapporo Agricultural College (now, Hokkaido University), where he converted to Christianity. Nitobe's decision to study agriculture was due to a hope expressed by Emperor Meiji that the Nitobe family would continue to advance the field of agricultural development (Nitobe's father developed formerly waste land near present-day Towada, now part of Iwate Prefecture, into productive farmland).

In 1884, Nitobe traveled to the United States where he stayed for three years, and studied economics and political science at Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore, Maryland. While in Baltimore he became a member of the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers). It was through a Quaker community in Philadelphia that he met Mary Patterson Elkinton, whom he eventually married.

While at Johns Hopkins, he was granted an assistant professorship at the Sapporo Agricultural College, but was ordered to first obtain doctorate in agricultural economics in Germany. He completed his degree after three years in Halle University and returned briefly to the United States before he assumed his teaching position in Sapporo in 1891. By the time he returned to Japan, he had published books in English and in German, and had received the first of his five doctorate degrees.

UBC Nitobe Garden
NW Marine Drive In 1901 Nitobe was appointed technical advisor to the Japanese colonial government in Taiwan, where he headed the Sugar Bureau. Nitobe was appointed a full professor of law at the Kyoto Imperial University in 1904 and lectured on colonial administration policies.

Nitobe and Hamilton Wright Mabie in 1911 were the first exchange professors between Japan and the United States under the auspices of the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace.

When the League of Nations was established in 1920, Nitobe became one of the Under-Secretaries General of the League, and moved to Geneva, Switzerland. He became a founding director of the International Committee on Intellectual Cooperation (which later became UNESCO under the United Nations' mandate).

UBC Nitobe Garden
After his retirement from the League of Nations, Nitobe briefly served in the House of Peers in the Japanese Imperial Parliament. He held critical views on increasing militarism in Japan in the early 1930s, and was devastated by Japan's withdrawal from the League of Nations in 1933.

In October 1933 on the way home from an international conference held in Banff, Alberta, Nitobe caught pneumonia, took a turn for the worst and was rushed to the Royal Jubilee Hospital in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. Following an operation he died on October 15, 1933. Morioka, Nitobe's birth place, and Victoria have been sister cities since 1985.

Mary Elkinton Nitobe lived in Japan until her death in 1938. Mary compiled and edited many of Nitobe's unpublished manuscripts, including his memoirs of early childhood, and contributed greatly to the preservation of his writings.

UBC Nitobe Garden
Nitobe was a prolific writer. He published many scholarly books as well as books for general readers. He also contributed hundreds of articles to popular magazines and newspapers. Nitobe, however, is perhaps most famous in the west for his work "Bushido: The Soul of Japan" (1900), which was one of the first major works on samurai ethics and Japanese culture written originally in English for Western readers. You can download a free copy of the book at the Project Gutenberg web site.

His portrait was featured on the Series D of ¥5000 banknote, printed from 1984 to 2004. A Second Nitobe Memorial Garden has been built at the Royal Jubilee Hospital in Victoria, British Columbia.

The UBC Nitobe Garden opened in 1960 and is located to the west of the Asian Centre (above) at 1903 West Mall.

Professor Kannosuke Mori of Chiba University, a distinguished Japanese Landscape Architect, was appointed to design the garden at the recommendation of the government of Japan. He personally directed the placement of each tree, stone and shrub. The principles of harmony, balance, and tranquility were employed in the garden's design. Evergreen trees are placed in contrast to the well-tended shrubs, flowering plants, and footbridges.

A path that encircles the garden symbolizes the eternal cycle of life. This garden reflects an idealized conception of nature with its harmony among natural forms - waterfalls, rivers, forests, islands and seas - and its balance between the masculine and feminine forces traditionally attributed to natural elements.

The tea house of the Nitobe Garden, Ichibo-an (Hut of the Sweeping View), is a classical example of a structure designed for the practice of the Japanese discipline called chado (Way of Tea). To that end, it is equipped with all the elements needed for the conducting of a complete tea gathering. These various parts of the tea house and its garden are laid out in accord with the ways that host and guest move about and interact at a tea gathering. This relationship between tea house and tea participant, based on function and the formal movement dictated by the tea ceremony, is what distinguishes the tea house (chashitsu) from a mere tea drinking pavilion.

The Urasenke Foundation of Vancouver hosts tea ceremonies at Nitobe Memorial Garden throughout the summer. Visitors attending the ceremony can witness the formal preparation of tea and participate as guests. Tea ceremonies take place on the last Saturday of the month throughout the summer, at 1:00, 1:50, 2:40, 3:30 and 4:20.

The fee for participation is 5 Canadian dollars. Reservations are encouraged (604-939-7749) as space is limited to eight people for each ceremony.

The "Marriage" lantern it appears that Professor Mori, as designer of the garden, used the two zodiacal lanterns (the Nitobe lantern and the marriage lantern, which are co-located on an approximately north-south axis) to indicate the cycles of time. The 12 zodiacal signs or “earthly branches” are: rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, sheep, monkey, rooster, dog, pig. These earthly branches form the basis of a counting system for the 60-year cycle of the sinitic calendar.

This cycle is made up of five units (water, wood, fire, earth, metal), each of 12 years. The earthly branches are used to count years within these 12-year periods. Nitobe was born in the penultimate year (dog) of the water part of the cycle and died in the year of the rooster. However, the 12 earthly branches have also been used to count the months of the year and the 12 double-hours of the day.

UBC Nitobe Garden
The zig-zag bridge by the iris pond is known as the “devil-losing bridge”. Such bridges are found in both China and Japan and refer to a belief that evil spirits, which by tradition are thought to travel in straight lines, cannot follow anyone across such a bridge.
The 77-log bridge is of particular note as this bridge is symbolic of Nitobe's stated desire "to be a bridge over the Pacific”.
UBC Nitobe Garden
A modern, stylized lantern near the west end of the 77-log bridge was erected and dedicated in May 1985 "In Memory of Dr. Inazo Nitobe" by the Horioka Nitobe Association of his native city, Horioka.
UBC Nitobe Garden
At the east end of the 77-log bridge is the Family Viewing Pavilion. At the centre of the roof is an upturned bronze rice bowl, probably symbolizing family life and the feeding of the family.
UBC Nitobe Garden
In the middle of the reflecting pond is the Island of Eternity, being enjoyed by students studying for final exams. The island is in the shape of a turtle, a symbol of longevity. Strategically placed rocks represent its flippers, head and tail. On the island is a prominent flat-topped rock, the rahai seki, which may be intended to represent Nitobe's soul.
UBC Nitobe Garden
At the north end of the Garden the "mountain Path" winds up to the source of the water and the waterfall. The path here turns into large stepping stones and it is the most lush location and the most tranquil with the sound of falling water.
UBC Nitobe GardenThe Nitobe lantern - A pedestal lantern of the Kasuga type

The Nitobe lantern has carved in it a lotus blossom (flower of paradise and symbol of purity) and a dog (Nitobe's birth sign). Also carved are the 12 zodiacal signs or “earthly branches” (rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, sheep, monkey, rooster, dog, pig). On the Nitobe lantern, the rat is aligned to the north, taking precedence as the first sign: as such it indicates the month of December and the first (midnight) double-hour of the day. As one goes around the base of the Nitobe lantern, the passage of time is marked.

The Nitobe lantern has been interpreted to symbolise the male principle or “Father figure” as well as memorialising Nitobe himself. This lantern predates the Nitobe Memorial Garden. It was installed in the UBC Botanical Garden (then situated in the centre of Campus) in 1939 by the Japan Society and by the Japanese Associations of British Columbia with the inscription: “I.M., Inazo Nitobe, 1861-1933, Apostle of Goodwill Among Nations, Erected by his friends”.

A Kasuga lantern typically has a cylindrical column surmounted by an annulet (small ring). Above this is the lantern box, generally hexagonal and topped by a hexagonal roof with pronounced scrolls at the points. The top is often in the form of a stylised lotus flower. The name “Kasuga” refers to a Shinto shrine. The Kasuga Grand Shrine in Nara was established in 768 AD and at

first used solely by the Fujiwara family. Reaching the shrine involves a long walk through three gates (torii) along a path lined with tall imposing lanterns. This type of lantern (with a long pedestal and massive construction) is therefore called a Kasuga lantern in reference to this shrine.
UBC Nitobe Garden
The Memorial Stone at the west end of the 77 log bridge translates, "to be a bridge over the Pacific."
UBC Nitobe GardenThe best way to reach the UBC Nitobe Garden from All Nations is to continue west on 41st Ave, which then turns into SW Marine Dr. As it then turns right and becomes NW Marine Dr. you will see the large white sign. Turn the next right onto West Mall and the first right at the Asian Centre. There is a parkade on the left.

Good times to visit are April - May for the cherry trees and rhododendrons, June for the Irises and October - November for the Fall foliage. After a rare Vancouver snowfall as well.

Enjoy!

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Newsletter # 174
Arthur Erickson House and Garden

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